Julie Mango is Perfectly Ripe - Jamaica Observer

2022-08-19 20:18:40 By : Ms. Tina Shao

Just a stone's throw from the frenzy of the Waterloo-Devon-East Kings House roads triangle is Julie Mango restaurant. Located at the Mayfair Hotel, the restaurant is the brainchild of wife-and-husband team Julie Ramchandani and Rajiv Harpalani. The restaurant, which was formerly located at Eden Gardens, has tested the mettle of the enterprising couple. However, as gourmands and apt businesspeople, they have a deep understanding of the ingredients critical to the secret sauce of success.

Identity, environment, customer service and price point are the key ingredients to operating a successful restaurant. In large cities across the world, 60 per cent of new restaurants fail within the first year. We see it all the time — a splashy new resto opens its doors and by the time you decide to visit, it's not there. And that disappearance is not based just on rent-obsessed landlords but on a constellation of issues: Mainly, an untenable business plan married to the wrong concept. Julie Mango however hits all the right notes and ticks all the right boxes. As relaxed as it is, the menu and customer experience offer a memorable experience.

Case in point. When Thursday Food visited there was a large group seated on the patio. A gust of wind met a cheeky French shutter and toppled a carafe of water. The server, who was new to the team, quickly apologised and kept her cool. There were no dramatics. A co-worker came by with a broom and dustpan to get rid of the broken glass. A mop followed. Where was the group, you ask? Already seated indoors with fresh glasses making their breakfast orders. The whole incident was done away with in under a minute and did not detract from other diners' experience. We reckon this is just one reason why "99 per cent of our guests have returned", according to Ramchandani. But once you flip through the menu, order, and take the first few bites, you'll understand they return.

The menu isn't comprised of dishes that require more science than seasonings. At Julie Mango, the food is not fussy but so well-prepared that it will satisfy and delight even the most travelled gourmand. According to Ramchandani, ackee and salt fish is the most popular item on the breakfast menu. Though you can have it with ground provisions and fried dumplings, you can also have it stuffed into taco shells made of fried breadfruit.

These Tallawah Tacos see crispy breadfruit taco shells stuffed with either seasoned ackee and plantain, ackee and salt fish, or scrambled egg with veggies. The flavours and textures were delightful. Also among the ackee offerings is the Ackee Backee lunchtime appetiser — tostones (twice-fried pressed green plantain) and topped with seasoned ackee and housemade mango chutney. Each Ackee Backee bite offers a flavour bomb! The sweet heat of the mango chutney perfectly complements the piquant seasonings, crisp tostones, and unctuous ackee.

The Rockin' Beet salad is another lunchtime menu item that you should not skip. The beautifully composed salad comprises fresh leafy greens, marinated roasted beets, goat cheese and candied walnuts drizzled with one of the best vinaigrettes Thursday Food has ever had. Sometimes we can't resist the Pavlovian urge to order a burger at lunch. But suppose you're in the mood for more than one kind of burger? That's okay; the trio of sliders at Julie Mango — pork belly, beef, and lamb — hits the spot.

Julie Mango's breakfast, lunch and dinner menus have standouts that have quickly become signature dishes. Start your dinner with the veggie ceviche — a delicious medley of beans, onions, and peppers tossed in a bright lime cilantro dressing and served with housemade plantain chips. The goat cheese-crusted salmon is another standout. It was a dish that the couple enjoyed having at one of their favourite restaurants in Saint Martin and they worked tirelessly to recreate it at home to continue enjoying it. If this is a recreation from taste and memory, then Ramchandani and Harpalani are sorcerers.

Though the menu items are based on the couple's favourite things to eat, Julie Mango chefs Charles Grove and Amasheka Thompson do a spectacular job at executing their vision. The servers have tasted each item on the menu and can speak with authority about the flavours of the dishes. Julie Mango serves food utilising the best and freshest ingredients and though the dishes are familiar in one way or another, there is always some delightful twist.

At the end of a meal, it's sometimes difficult to have a large serving of dessert. But what to do when you feel for something sweet? Julie Mango's got you. Each option is apportioned to offer just a few fork- or spoonfuls: The ideal way to end a meal. The dessert flavours and offerings change regularly but there are always vegan and chocolate options.

Julie Mango has survived moving locations and a pandemic closure. The number of regulars who visit is a testament to the deliciousness of the food and the quality of customer service. Julie Mango is perfectly ripe and Thursday Food invites you to visit and take a big bite.

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